Yamaha XS360 Build


XS400 Member
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Fort Collins

I picked up this old girl from craigslist for cheap recently. She's in pretty good shape just missing a few key parts (carbs, kickstart arm, wiring harness was pretty rough etc.). Figured i could use this forum to share my work and get some help seeing as i'm still new to working on motorcycles.
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As of today she's stripped down and ready for a sandblast and paint.

Motor looked good, no random metal shavings anywhere and it was surprisingly clean.


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Actually quick question for you guys, does anyone have a good carb recommendation for her? Been leaning towards Mikuni VM28's but honestly haven't seen much relating to that except that VM30's might be too big.

Thanks for reading!
I'd recommend the stock Mikunis.
VMs have been discussed a bunch. Try putting "VM carb" in the search box. A few different setups have been used but good results and feedback are few.
Thats kinda what i've been seeing. Most VM threads die off once the setup hits tuning, it seems mostly due to frustration. I've definitely been keeping an eye out for a set of stock carbs but nothings really jumped out at me recently.

Whats the lowdown on XS400 carbs on a 360?
Hi , i have also this XS360. Maybe can you send me some pics? On the front wheel i need to know wath screw is holding the brake disc. and maybe can you take some dimensions from the rear drum brake holder (the long stick ) with some photo? :) thanks a lot ! :)


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Interesting info bout the carbs... Still doing research but in the meantime i decided to get going on my seat. So far so good. Still not sure how im attaching the cover to the seat pan but thats a problem for another day. If any of you have tricks for that advice would be welcome.

And Algenso ill try and get those Brake dimensions for you in the next couple of days when i get a another couple minutes to work on her.


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Alright got my first attempt at upholstery done. Turned out better than expected other than the front. Need to work on my corners. Adding a frame loop to the frame anyways so this seat wouldnt fit anyways.
IMG_3190.jpg Also got the tank primed and ready for paint. Anyone have any recomendations on paint that wont get too scuffed up by gas? Heard the 2k clearcoat with catalyst is a good choice for the clearcoat so does the paint matter?IMG_3192.jpg IMG_3193.jpg
As for fuel safe, not entirely sure. I'm assuming all cleared paint will hold up to gas splashes.

The only thing I would recommend doing is stick with similar brands. If you're running ppg clearcoar, use ppg paint. Same goes for the reducers/hardeners/flex agents or whatever you'll be mixing in with the paint. Many auto parts stores will actually sell their paint in an aerosol spray can. They'll mix up whatever color you're looking for. An old customer of mine had some crazy silver paint shipped in from Germany for his cuda and supplied some ppg reducer. I've never seen products fight each other like those had.

I'm anal when it comes to painting. I would definitely hit the thing with some sealer, then primer. Sealer is an added reassurance, as primer is porous. Don't want to have to let the thing sit in primer during the summer, the humidity could do horrible things to paint. Once the primer is on, sand everything down so that you're happy with it. Crosshatch as much as possible. Once the primer is applied, hit the thing with some 600 grit paper, apply second coat and finish up with a 600 grit wet sand and wipe down with some cheese cloth. Don't scrub the dang thing though, that stickiness isn't something you'd want underneath that nice ol' coat of paint. Blast the tank with a ground coat (very light dusting) before you start applying actual coats of paint. Helps the paint to adhere. I'd say 1-2 ground coats and 2-3 heavy coats. If you're feeling frosty, let the paint dry after your second heavy coat and wet sand that again with 600 before your final coat until the sheen is gone from the paint, just make sure you're using a lot of water. 30 gallon bucket full and a garden hose will do you just fine. This'll help to get that glassy finish without having to go too crazy with a buffing wheel. I would wet sand the clear with 1k, 1.5k, then 2k wet paper before buffing. Just be sure to get a solid amount of clear on that thing before you start buffing anything, wouldn't want to burn through that fancy paint work.

Just my suggestion anyway. The bikes looking good homie, can't wait to see it when its all done up! What color are you thinking?
Thanks for the tips man! Been wet sanding each layer of primer as i go. Good info on keeping brands the same ill make sure to keep that in mind.

As of right now i'm thinking a dark foresty green on the tank. With the maroon seat it's going to be a kind of 'off christmas' color theme.
If you don't have a nice compressor and gun setup, buy a few cans of the 2K bomb cans. They work great. You can grab them from Eastwood.

I used Eastwood 2k primer, base coat mixed from a local auto shop(not 2k), then finished with the Eastwood 2k clear. The clear will need some diligent sanding and finishing(as they all do) but after you'll have a nice gas resistant finish.
Thats what i've been thinking. My compressors too small to run a paint gun well if i'm not mistaken. Good to hear the 2K holds up well to gas.
Alright got the tank painted. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Quick question for y'all. What's the tab on the left side of the headtube for?

Haha wow shoulda known that one. Anyways got the frame welded up and out to powdercoating. Should be back early this week.
Also managed to score a stock xs360 carb off ebay so stoked on that. What air filters are yall running on them? was thinking Uni pods.
Uni foam filters or the original, hard to find, K&Ns seem to be the only aftermarket air filters that people post positive long-term feedback about.
These type of K&N are very good if you can find them. Uni's are good and stock always works very well for a good tune. Anything else is a waste of time. I have tried others and now they just sit on the shelf.

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Hey it may be a bit late but next time you sand prim try to use a guide coat they make it in spray bomb or a rub on dust it helps spot low and high spots in prime and gives you a visual when sanding