Vroom's 79 Build Thread- scrambler/brat?

Great build that bike looks amazing!!! would you sell just the rear blinker dampers assembly (metal part and rubber)
 
Thanks Phate! I don't know if I would sell just the rubber mounts...:( I fell like that is the one part of the blinker I would want to keep bc I may need them.

I'd prefer selling them as 2 sets with blinkers, wiring, and all the mounting hardware.

I'll be setting up a part-out thread soon for all the items I am taking off. Everything is mint, so hopefully it's stuff people want. Also to fund some new mods:thumbsup:

I've been drooling over some new shocks and SS brake lines on MikesXS:laugh:
-may be getting them as a lil xmas gift to myself... just worried about the fitment of the SS lines... Im looking at the rear that is 24' i think and the 41' front. Anyone know if those are the right size?
-I want to rebuild the front forks with progressive springs, but am not sure where to get them:confused:
-also may do a +1 sprocket in the front for more top end, but I am not sure on that as it may be overkill...:shrug:
 
Removed the huge oem taillight and popped in a temp. trailer light:laugh: It's hooked right up and works great. Im still undecided on where Im going with the fender, so it'll do for now.

Went for a nice long ride to help a buddy out with wiring on his cb360:thumbsup:, and had a chance to snap some pics when I got back.

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Clutch is still slipping(always gets better once warmed up, which I find very odd) so a adjust and possibly a rebuild is on order. Also noticed my carb boots are seriously cracked...:banghead: May try the plasti-dip repair method before ordering new boots...:shrug:
 
Fun stuff arrived!
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I did the shocks first but didnt take pics:doh:

Did the front line after. Using the clamps made doing this alone that much easier.
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I ordered the SS line from MikesXS, great price and quality looked good enough. I ordered the 41 inch front and the only problem was it's a bit longer.
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Installed and here is the outcome later. I originally had the line going up from the master cylinder(outside of the designated grooved spot) and I couldnt get the line to create pressure:banghead::banghead: I assumed it was only going to work in the right spot and switched to this setup:shrug:
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I may look into doing it up again just to get an idea of whether it would work. Was in a rush at the time:doh:


Repeated the process for the rear. The oil was pretty bad.:eek:
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The line for the rear was actually shorter...:confused:
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...but still worked.

Rear line and new shocks installed...:thumbsup:
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The center stand is almost useless now..:laugh::doh:

The rear tire is barely off the ground, it can spin on the stand, but is touching.
If I even need to, I can always put a piece of wood or something to get the higher effect though.
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:thumbsup:
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Did a quick test run and its grabbing strong. Feels like it actually can stop now:laugh:

A long ride and solid suspension shakedown is in order. Coming soon:bike:
 
It's hard to see from the pic but is that oil that that you did the change with motorcycle oil meant for wet clutches if not that could explain your clutch problem.
 
Sly- I ordered the 41" SS line for the front, and the rear SS line. They were really the only options. Not an exact fit, but similar to you my guess was that they are universal. Just made them fit.

phate- I used the Rotela diesel oil bc some people on here recommended it as a good oil for our bikes. It was slipping just as much before the the oil change and gets better as the bike warms up. My main concern is whether or not the disks have already absorbed whatever bad oil was in before. I'll be doing an adjust soon, or may just be switching up to high friction plates... i'd like to try to adjust them first tho.

I almost got a heavy weight mc oil for wet clutches, but heard Rotela and other heavy duty diesel oils were the way to go. Is that wrong???
 
Also, I noticed my kickstart is working less and less:mad:
Sometimes it would catch, but now it barely ever does. Even with the motor warmed up. It feels like it just slips or something:wtf:

Any advice? I know Im not not kicking hard enough, and Ive done it before, but now it feels like the motor doesnt get spun...:confused:
 
When I first got my xs, my kickstart would feel slippy a lot and rarely catch, I later adjusted my clutch on the left engine side and that did the trick. Just take out that rubber blocker for the clutch adjuster, loosen the nut with the flathead screw in it, you'll hear a pop which is the cable loosening, then back the screw out and slowly turn it back in untill you feel it get just snug, then tighten the nut and you should be good.
 
Also, I noticed my kickstart is working less and less:mad:
Sometimes it would catch, but now it barely ever does. Even with the motor warmed up. It feels like it just slips or something:wtf:

Any advice? I know Im not not kicking hard enough, and Ive done it before, but now it feels like the motor doesnt get spun...:confused:

that's the clutch slipping, check the cable isn't binding and is properly adjusted

I just got a local racing shop to make my lines up, or you can buy goodrich kits and make them yourself
 
phate- I used the Rotela diesel oil bc some people on here recommended it as a good oil for our bikes. It was slipping just as much before the the oil change and gets better as the bike warms up. My main concern is whether or not the disks have already absorbed whatever bad oil was in before. I'll be doing an adjust soon, or may just be switching up to high friction plates... i'd like to try to adjust them first tho.

I almost got a heavy weight mc oil for wet clutches, but heard Rotela and other heavy duty diesel oils were the way to go. Is that wrong???

Check the label on the Rotella jug/bottle. My jug of Rotella T 15W-40 clearly states "JASO DH-2" and "JASO MA" approvals in addition to all the diesel ones. :thumbsup: I noticed that my clutch stopped chattering and grabbing shortly after changing from Castrol 4-stroke 10W-40 motorcycle oil that I had been using. I can now slip the clutch smoothly, and shifting is smoother. :bike:

Dave
 
Thanks guys:thumbsup:

Keving- where exactly is the rubber blocker you are referring to? Where the cable meets the casing? There is no rubber cover there, but I did notice it was kinda loose...:doh:
Is it the round rubber piece just the the left?

Dave- I'm not sure, but will def be checking soon as I get there.

I really need to get this sorted for it to be an enjoyable ride:banghead:
 
Okay, so after poking around the Haynes manual a bit, it looks like the clutch adjustment is going to be under the front sprocket cover... so I should just pop it off and I'll see it right?
 
Here ya go:thumbsup:
 

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So I adjusted the clutch by lifting the rubber cap and re-tightening the screw.

I have to admit, the first pop from the clutch loosening scared the crap out of me:yikes::laugh:

Took a second to get the idea right, but once it was done... WOW! What a difference!!!
It now pulls in every gear and is super easy to kick start. Def don't need to rebuild the clutch anymore which is a huge relief :thumbsup:

Rode up a1a along the beach... great ride. Probably put close to 100 miles on her this weekend:bike:

Thanks for all the help!
 
Yea, it's ridiculous how much more it pulls. I was really worried there at one point...

The kick starter actually works like I thought it should have this whole time now haha.... that being said, I am now honestly considering a e-start delete for a smaller battery.
- Can you just leave in the e-start but not use it? Or will it drain the battery anyway?

It would be nice to have it for jump starts with a tender on cold days at home...
 
Yes you can leave it in but you will still need a full size battery to use it.
 
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