SYNTHETIC Oil Change ... How Often?

[robindean]

I've been here a few years. Some of you know me pretty darn well. Consider this a short recap on something I've wondered about for a while ...

Out of paranoia, I change my oil every three months / 2000 miles.

However, I use Rotella T6 (5W-40 synthetic).

I realize my current approach probably doesn't hurt but am I going overboard?

I'd like to know, considering that my oil choice is a more durable synthetic, how many months / miles should I really go between oil changes?

 

[Scorpio1963]

To me your viscosity is realy low even though its synthetic.I use 20w50 synthetic oil in my bike and don't plan on changing it till December..You shouldn't have to change your oil but once during the season.I was using the rotella T triple dino but I got rid of it.

 

[16VGTIDave]

I've recently switched to the same oil, this spring actually. I think the viscosity is just right for a DOHC engine, as too thick an oil will starve the cams for oil.

Because I just switched, and there will have been old conventional oil in the engine, I plan on changing at the specified interval, 3000 km which is later this week, and then extending the interval. I'm not sure how far I can push the oil, so I will be listening for noisy valves and feeling for rough shifting as those are both good indicators of viscosity breakdown. I will also be testing the detergent additives by dripping a single drop of hot oil onto a single layer of a paper coffee filter that is held flat and not touching anything. If the oil leaves a dark stain in the center and then wicks through the paper clear, the detergents in the oil are depleted. If the oil stain is uniform in colour, then the detergents are still working properly to hold debris in suspension. The colour of the oil is NOT a good indicator of synthetic oil "health".

Also, if your engine consumes some oil (normal for an air cooled engine) and you top it up regularly, the additives will be slightly replenished and this in turn will allow a longer drain interval.

Sorry I can't offer a definitive answer, but there are many factors to consider...

 

[robindean]

@Scorpio, thank you ... but I'll be sticking with the T6.

@GTIDave ... that's an EXCELLENT answer: not what I want to hear but hugely informative.

Your 3000k is near my 2000 miles, so I'll stick with my mileage choice for when to change it out. I can tell you that T6 does break down a little bit faster than dinosaur oil (non synthetic) but not enough that any mileage adjustments need to happen.

Our manual says 3000 miles (2500k?). I just learned of the synthetic breaking down faster myself, so subtracting 1000 miles form the maintenance point makes sense.

WHICH LEAVES ONE MORE QUESTION:

How many MONTHS can the synthetic stuff sit before an oil change is a good idea? Googling but if anyone knows, chime in.

 

[robindean]

Dangit ... or does synthetic have the longer shelf life while in the pan? I don't remember and "the Google" presents conflicting opinions.

 

[drewpy]

I thought synthetic would be considerably more durable than Mineral due to its manufacturing based formulae and a more stable in its performance.

I change my annually and it still looks clean and still feels slippery (not like my diesel car which supposed to have an 18000 mile service interval)

 

[robindean]

I would say the same but there's a running commentary out there about how the additives (which are excellent for our bikes) actually cause faster breakdown of the lubricants.

 

[drewpy]

are these people Chemists?

I take anecdotal evidence with a pinch of salt, biggest breakthrough in engine tech was the formulation of synthetics so engineers can reduce clearances in modern engine design.

 

[robindean]

Well, I like the coffee filter test as mentioned above. No way of knowing unless you try, right?

You mention changing it once yearly in terms of duration but what about mileage?

I like this analogy: dino-oil is like tiny gravel whereas synthetic is like tiny marbles. One carries different shapes while the other is equal at every molecule, so to speak.

 

[Scorpio1963]

Oil viscosity that you use all depends on what temp your climate zone is.Where I live temps can get as high as 95 during the summer and has.

 

[robindean]

Chicago. We have three seasons:

(1) Balls hot.
(2) Where my balls? cold
(3) Construction

 

[16VGTIDave]

Synthetic oil will maintain viscosity at higher temps than dino oil can survive.
Synthetic oil requires fewer additives, or none at all, to achieve a specific viscosity so other additives can be increased.
Synthetic oil is harder to shear or break down than dino oil.
There are a number of different types of synthetic base stocks, including processed dino oil that is almost as good as a true synthetic.

You can read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

 

[doodsaibot]

Damn. After reading that link that Dave just posted, I am kind of wishing I had bought the Rotella T6 synthetic rather than the Rotella Triple T.

 

[volcomskater77]

@robindean I'm from "Tha Chi" so your weather chart is pretty on point.
As for changing the oil, I use Rotella 15w40 and change in every 1200-1500 miles. My bike sees a lot of spirited highway miles like +85mph for up to 2 hours at a time and +95 for up to 45 min at a time. I have not had any problems with changing the oil early, and with the highway abuse i figure it cant hurt. I also change my filter every oil change.
Overkill? Most likely, but it also allows me to beat the piss out of the bike with no remorse as my oil never REALLY starts to break down (yes i know that it breaks down as soon as it's sent though a heat cycle)

 

[robindean]

Okay,

I was going to refrain but now I have to step in.

@doodsaibot - That link that Dave "just posted" is from September of 2013. LOL.

@volcomskater77 - That's pretty much what I was doing when I still owned mine. Try a round of synthetic, too. I've learned more about it since this post started and you'll find it's even more submissive to rider brutality. Moreover, you can buy an additional tooth for your front sprocket to ease things but don't go any faster without a fork brace or the wobble will getcha!

 

[doodsaibot]

Okay,

I was going to refrain but now I have to step in.

@doodsaibot - That link that Dave "just posted" is from September of 2013. LOL.

Oh. Just realized that.

 

[16VGTIDave]

LOL! Doesn't make the info any less valid.

I've since extended my oil change interval to 10,000 km / 6200 mi or 1 year. I have been changing the filter at the same time, but may switch to every other oil change as there has been no debris showing on the filter. The magnet on the oil drain plug has a minimal "fuzz" of fine metal particles, and it appears to be less with each oil change. So far, no issues!

 

[doodsaibot]

LOL! Doesn't make the info any less valid.

I've since extended my oil change interval to 10,000 km / 6200 mi or 1 year. I have been changing the filter at the same time, but may switch to every other oil change as there has been no debris showing on the filter. The magnet on the oil drain plug has a minimal "fuzz" of fine metal particles, and it appears to be less with each oil change. So far, no issues!

It is definitely good info. 6,200 miles? Dang, that's some good oil right there! I can't get through this Triple T Rotella quick enough!

My bike was sitting for quite a few years before I purchased it (the previous owner said a couple years but I think it was more like 4) so I was curious as to what was floating around in the crankcase (and gas tank but that's a different topic all together.) I have actually changed the oil and filter 3 times (sounds excessive) coupled with increasingly aggressive riding since I got the bike because I wanted to be sure that any sludge or metal particles that accumulated over its' dormant years were evacuated. Dave, this drain plug magnet sounds like just the item I may need.

Since we are on the topic of synthetics, I also read into synthetic blends (since I almost bought some. Kind of glad I didn't.) There is, at most, 30% synthetic mixed with the conventional oil which to me didn't seem like it would make a world of difference in longevity and performance. Everyone has their own brands and favorites but I think I have just found mine. Rotella T6 here I come!

 

[16VGTIDave]

Seems to be working for me, so far! I found a package of super strong yet tiny magnets. 8mm or about 5/16" in diameter and 3mm or 1/8" thick. I think they are 10lbs pull or more. I have simply stuck it on the wet end of the oil drain plug of my bike and cars. They don't move, but if you are worried you could epoxy the magnet in place, or drill a hole in the drain plug and set the magnet in the hole.

Synthetic blends are a waste of $ in my opinion. Ever heard the old saying "a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link"? In a blended oil, the weak link is the conventional oil. Blended oils were developed by marketing departments, not by chemical engineers.

 

[doodsaibot]

It makes one wonder what other questionable automotive chemicals that marketing has "developed" over the years. As for the magnets, it sounds like a solid plan. Knowing me, I will more than likely epoxy the magnet just to be on the safe side.

I am going to really press into my bike with this Rotella T Triple. So far the start ups are a hell of a lot stronger but I can't wait to see what the T6 Synthetic can do for me down the road.