I've had the same problem before, as I'm sure alot of others have to. My suggestion would be to spray the axle and the nut with something like PB-Blaster. WD-40 works well, but PB-Blaster penetrates the metal a little better. Leave it to soak overnight, and then try again. If that doesn't do the trick, a breaker bar can give a little more leverage. Even tapping the bar with a hammer can help even more. Heat can be applied to the nut as well, just be sure to apply it evenly. Another tip is to use a socket that has the same amount of points as your axle has. For example, if your axle nut has 6 points, as most do, use a 6 point socket to loosen it to keep from stripping the nut. Your axle may be corroded, or may even have been overly-torqued on a previous repair. When re-installing the axle later on, apply a little more PB-Blaster or WD-40 to make future removal a little easier, and to prevent further corrosion. Also, make sure when re-installing the axle, to torque the axle nut to factory specs to avoid stripping the threads. I know it's a long response, but hopefully this helps. Let us know how it turns out.I thought I would ask for ideas on how to remove a stuck rear axel, rather than just go ahead and possibly bugger it up. Any help will be appreciated!
Travis,Hey, guys. I can see a gap between the wheel and the spacer on the right side after I hit it a few times. This tells me that it is the right side spacer that is stuck, as the axle cap is still tight to the swingarm. I have been hitting it back in to place, and then starting over. I think the next thing I will try is to lay the bike on its side, to better allow the penetrant to soak in. I need to get the bike inside, so I can use heat on it as well. BTW, this is on one of my SR500s... I hope that doesn't upset anyone, as I realize this is a 400 website.