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Welcome to the forum! The rebuild kit part number for the 1978 XS400E is 1U4-W0042-50-00. It looks like the SR500 also uses this rear brake master cylinder. I pasted the part number into a web search and it looks like someone on eBay has one for sale: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183418303343...

Looks like great progress from the pictures - thanks for posting those! I would just put the fender back on the bike and if anyone asks, just tell them that is where a meteorite hit it when it was parked outside.

Flanders, Barnett or Motion Pro probably sell them.... Just checked Flanders and they have this: Here is the page link with the full specs: https://www.flanderscompany.com/products/cable-end-adjuster-620-27286. This one is M8x1.25 threads, but they also have one that is M6x1.00 as well. I...

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Doesn't matter as the key is off, so no power to the ignition. Just make sure kill switch is in run for step two or you will be kicking for a long time and just flooding the bike with fuel.

The cold start procedure used on my '81 XS400H is: 1. Key off, fuel petcock on, pull enricher to full open position, give bike three full kicks. 2. Set enricher to ½ open, make sure kill switch is in run position, key on, make sure bike is in neutral, kick the bike to start. The bike usually...

You are getting close! Hang in there.... I think you are on the right track as I would look at fuel supply as the first issue.

You are welcome. I guess that the advantage is some simplicity without the extra pumps and power valves, etc, and it is contained in a small body that can fit into the limited space allowed. There are a surprising number of carb variants out there but they all basically use vacuum and...

Lots of questions! Let's see if I can help without typing a book. The long Chimney is the needle jet (sometimes called the emulsion tube by other carb manufacturers). There are a number of air and fuel jets in this carb. The ones of most concern are located in the float bowl area (starting jet...

Welcome to the forum. If you have the time, it might be worth your while to put the bike together in stock form and get it running well before doing any mods. Having a good baseline before customization will make troubleshooting any starting, running and performance issues later much easier.

I don't know that the term "buttery smooth" is very accurate for a cable operated clutch. I always operate my clutch with two fingers and chalk that up to having a cable in good condition and lubricating the crap out of it with gear oil at the start of each and every season.

Sounds like you have an air leak which is creating a lean mixture and high rpm. Check for an air leak from the carb butterfly shafts through to the head.

i checked off a couple of more lighthouses in a full day ride. #6 of 13 Hereford Inlet Lighthouse in North Wildwood, NJ This was designed by the same architect who drew the US Library of Congress in Washington DC. Also, a couple of lighthouses that look just like this one still exist on the US...

It shouldn't. It sounds to me like you have a bad ground in the signal circuit. At least the stuff you mentioned above is related (horn too) by connection to the signal circuit in a bike with stock wiring. Since your bike is modified, you might have something different. But without other...

I agree to not worry too much about what is left over. I have seen some surprising things (like piston pin clips, gasket chunks, globs of silicone sealant, not to mention the clutch material already mentioned) in the crankcase bottoms of engines that ran just fine. However, if you flush the case...

Perhaps try a solvent flush: -Drain the oil if you already haven't. -With the engine upright, pour 250ml or so of mineral spirits or convenient solvent of your choice in through the oil fill. -Grab the engine and swish the solvent around the bottom of the crankcase. Keep the engine upright while...

I have used a heat gun to soften the rubber some, but once that rubber gets hard, it will never be easy and the risk of damaging them or the carbs goes up. For what it is worth, pretty good replacements are available from Taiwanese or Chinese manufacturers, and they are pretty inexpensive. I...

That is valve clatter from the rocker arms contacting the tops of the valves when operating them. It is always hard to tell from a video, but even though some clatter is normal, this might be a bit loud. Causes can be excessive valve clearance or lack of top end lubrication. So, just to rule...

Whatever damage that might have occurred is done, so it might not be bad to just put the new screw in, adjust the valves properly and run it. If the bike doesn't run well and shows low compression or makes a noise, pull the top end apart and assess/address any damage.

Welcome to the forum. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about this as the coils ohm properly and you have seen the magnetic field from the primary winding and did get a few sparks. It could be that you are inconsistent in opening up and quickly grounding one side of the primary winding to...