Search results

The kick lever seem too far back, at that position it may be 'engaged' and this is why it moves. Can you move it forward? Look at any picture of the bike, the lever is nearly vertical when not used. And if clutch is not engaging - check if cable is released, there should be some play. It is...

Here is an idea - using one of those 'point' electric welding units touch the piece of key that is stuck with the wire so that wire 'welds' to it, and then pull it out. Just try on something else first... or using dremel and small(tiny) drill drill a hole into the piece, and then screw a tiny...

Post a picture, that may spark some ideas....

With my day-driver car totaled I have been riding bike to work for two days. Love my lil pony! All I did to it - lube-ed the chain, added gas, and put new rear tire! ( New rear tire adds at least 5 hp to the bike, I swear... )

I would pull spark plugs out, put bike in second gear and roll it(ignition off).. with my finger on spark plug holes - I want to feel that compression. It should be in both cylinders - this is my simplified compression/valve clearances check. In this video I don't 'hear' compression... when I...

Congrats! $200 seem like a steal to me. Disk brakes... Tubeless wheels... Frame is not cracked... bike starts with starting fluid!? - $600 would be a very good price in my book.

By tracing I meant to get an extra lamp with two long wires(control lamp), turn signal 'on' and watch front lamp blink, connect one wire from control lamp to the engine/ground, and with other 'free' wire first connect to relay - your control lamp should be blinking (so you know it works). Now...

Issue might be under the seat where rear indicator's connectors are, or bulbs could be bad(unlikely for both to go bad, but possible), could be ground wire from rear blinkers disconnected (broken...). The good thing is that fronts are working, following the diagram you can trace signal from the...

Sounds like air is leaking... First I would check that vacuum lines are connected to petcock and are not leaking, then that butterflies close all the way when 'idle screw is all out' , your throttle cable may be holding them from closing. If they close all the way - air may be leaking through...

Congrats on attached garage - no more winterizing :-) Sorry to hear about your shoulder, hope you recover fast. Where did you go to find snow? I summer-rized my board this Saturday after barely using-up my triple-play ticket at Mt. Creek .... P.S. I have two 50% off coupons for 1-day...

Yesterday after work I started my bike after winter sleep. (Last year I did not bother winterizing it, just parked it. I think we had riding weather in December). To my enjoyment simple press of the button revealed that battery is still good and cranking. After few attempts, with loud blast...

I would take jumper cables and connect to a working car battery; if bike starts - you know that starter and connections are good. Chances are your battery is weak.

Interesting that you have this problem only in 5 and 6th, 4th is ok? Perhaps try on some uphill road... if you get this problem in every gear at least it is consistent problem at higher rpm. If this was consistent "high rpm" problem my guess would be that either your ignition advancing...

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13287

That's your answer :-)

Yeah, they worked and I have them somewhere. PM your address and I'll mail you a few tomorrow.

Sorry to hear, hope no major damage. Let us know how it goes.

I have to be honest, I do not fully understand the "stopper" trick. Can't comment on that. If you already have TDC scratch(mark) you can set valve clearances. Measure 12degrees from first scratch and make another scratch(mark), now you can set ignition timing using it. As for bent valves...

You can stick a pencil(or whatever) into spark plug hole(while holding it) and simply feel piston go up and down while turning crankshaft with a wrench, TDC is between moment pencil stops going up and the point it starts going down. To make TDC mark you do not care what compression cycle it is...

You squeeze the lever with your left hand to disengage the clutch (that move pulls the cable), and then you let it go to engage the clutch back(the cable is released). When you let it go the lever should return back to original position(and release the cable). It is possible that after you...